Fall Bulbs

It's that time of year again! No, I'm not talking about the kids going back to school. I'm referring to the fact that fall bulb season has arrived. It's time to think about tulips, daffodils, crocuses and scilla.  

These are hardy bulbs that are planted in the fall but bloom in the spring (no instant gratification with these bulbs - you must be patient, but they're worth the wait). Depending on the variety of flowering shrubs and perennials that you have in your garden, these could be the first blooms you enjoy after the snow disappears.

Here are a few tips I have learned about bulbs over the years:

- The smaller the bulbs, the more you should plant. Three larger bulbs, like tulips or daffodils , planted in a clump will show from a distance come spring, but three snowdrops or crocuses (smaller bulbs) will not make an impact. You will have to double or triple the number of bulbs to make them visible.

- If you are unsure what is the top or the bottom of the bulb, plant it on its side. That way, the leaves will grow up and the roots will grow down.

- After the bulbs have bloomed next spring, you must leave the foliage on to ripen (die naturally). Ripening or dying foliage in the garden is not my idea of "attractive"! My solution: plant these bulbs around perennials. Peonies, daylilies and hostas are perfect to hide the fading foliage of tulips, daffodils and narcissus. The smaller bulbs (crocus, snowdrops, scilla, etc., etc.) do not require hiding. They seem to fade away invisibly.

- If rodents or deer always help themselves to your bulbs or blooms, plant daffodils. They are rodent- and deer-proof. And there are many wonderful varieties available now besides the "old- fashioned" yellow ones. You can choose from pink, white, bi-colour and doubles, just to list a few.

- The larger the bulb, the deeper you should plant it. Daffodils should be about 6" deep and crocuses about 2 - 3" deep. And yes, you can even plant the smaller bulbs on top of the larger bulbs. Crocuses bloom before daffodils, so you can have double the pleasure in the same space.   

"Naked Boys"

I came home today and discovered my "naked boys" in bloom.

Now that I have your attention, I have to explain (it's not like it sounds).

Many, many years ago, I was visiting a friend and fell in love with a most beautiful flower in his garden. He called them "naked boys." This is one of their common names --  another one is "Fall Crocus". His common name referred to the fact that they bloom without the presence of leaves...hence the flowers look naked.

You might ask: How can a plant survive without leaves?  Well, the answer is they don't. Each April, the leaves quickly appear, at the same time as your daffodils do. These leaves produce all the needed food to fill the underground bulbs with nutrients in order to create the amazing show of flowers you get in the fall.

Sounds bizarre doesn't it? These fall crocus are hardy bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, but they turn everything you thought you knew about hardy bulbs upside down.

Ornamental Grass

In my opinion, ornamental grasses are a must-have in every garden. In a gentle breeze, their foliage makes a soft, rustling sound - it is so calming and relaxing. They are hardy, drought-tolerant and have strong architectural shapes. Many are also very colourful.

The diversity of ornamental grasses on the market now provides so many possibilities for our gardens. When I started gardening many years ago, I recall only one readily available grass: Phalaris, commonly known as Gardeners Garters. In the spring it emerges with fresh green and white striped foliage, but by mid- to late-summer it appears tired. And, it has a well-deserved reputation for being invasive.

Most of the ornamental grasses available today are clump forming, so there is no fear that they will take over your garden.

Blue Oat Grass has spectacular silvery-blue foliage that grows into a spiky two-foot ball. The other attribute that I love about this grass is that it is one of the first grasses to emerge in the spring. Unlike other grasses, it does not have to be pruned in the spring; I simply comb by fingers through the foliage from base to tip to remove the old foliage.

The other group of grasses that I am particularly fond of is the Maiden Grasses. In general, they are all upright-arching in shape and by late summer they are adorned with silky, fluffy seed heads. Their stems are strong enough to withstand the wind and snow load of our winters, so they add a lot of interest to winter landscapes.

Birds in the Garden

When I moved into my new home two and a half years ago, the backyard was surrounded by evergreens and a huge expansive lawn. I thought it was a wasteland - no flowers, no shrubs, and very few birds. But, it had potential!

Today, I am sitting on a large deck at the back of the house,  surrounded by a bed full of perennials, flowering shrubs, and evergreens. And it overlooks a huge island bed filled with more of the same.

Over the years, the diversity of the plants has grown and evolved, and so have the birds. I can't believe the robins, gold finches, cardinals, hummingbirds, wood peckers, and cedar wax wings. However, there has been one bird I have been missing. They are feisty (at times, aggressive), have a perky tail and a sweet song: the house wren.

They have nested at every house I have lived in, but this house has no bird houses. So I put up a little house on a six foot post - faced the opening hole to the south east. I knew I was late in the season but  I did everything to the wrens' specifications. I sat back, waited and hoped that a couple would take up residence in my new birdhouse...

Sure enough, I was soon rewarded! My garden is now complete with these house wrens filling the air with their beautiful chorus of song. These little birds are a power house at cleaning up insects too.

Having a variety of birds nest and/or dine in my garden is one the many joys of gardening for me!

Insects

We all know that insects may harm our plants, or even kill them. While trying to keep our plants alive, we are prone to killing all the insects we see. Did you know that there are also many insects that not only benefit plants, but also deal with the insects that try to harm them? One such relationship is that of ants and peonies: just before peonies begin to bloom they exude a sticky substance. Ants are drawn to the sweet substance and will not harm the plants while encouraging the peony to blom.

Insects that are dangerous to plants include aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, thrips, tent caterpillars, loopers, and many more. However, there are just as many natural enemies of these harmful critters including ladybugs (the love to eat aphids), lacewings (will eat any soft-bodied insects it can find- including mealy bugs and tent caterpillars), praying mantis (will eat anything it can grab), as well as beneficial nematodes (will eat grubs that attack a plant's root system). Beneficial insects will generally not damage plants or bother humans and animals.

In conclusion, beneficial insects are a cost-effective, natural way to eliminate pests from the garden. So next time you see one, don't squash it, encourage it!

Editor's note: This entry was authored by Emily, Reds employee.

Thanks Mulch

Now that I have finished adding all the new plants (annuals, perennials and a couple shrubs) to my gardens, it is time to turn my attention to mulching. I add a layer of mulch to my beds annually- I could never keep my flower beds weed-free if I didn't.

A layer of mulch that is at least two (2) inches thick will suppress weed growth, though a thicker layer is even better. I try to maintain mine about three (3) inches thick. When mulching, I always keep one inch around the stems or trunks of my plants free of mulch as not to choke out new growth.

I use natural shredded pine mulch in my garden, but any mulch will give you the same results. Dyed mulches, such as Premium Red, Premium Black, and Enhance red pine are coloured with all-natural pigments and make excellent choices as well.

Since mulch is organic material, it slowly breaks down over time, improving your soil in the process. However, this also means that you have to annually top up your mulch to maintain a 2-3 inch coverage.

Mulch not only suppresses weeds, it also keeps your plants' root system cool and moist. So pile on the mulch like I am ~ your plants will love it!

Fragrant plants

During my workday, I chat with a lot of people about plants.

I am amazed how often the conversation is about fragrant plants! And most often, people are reminiscing about a plant from their childhood. This plant and its fragrance is associated with wonderful, fun, happy and/or loving times or people. Having this plant in their garden would allow the customer to relive or enjoy these memories again and again.

Perfume, fragrance, and smells are that way! A certain smell is filled with memories - usually good ones. Of our five senses, sight would have to be the most frequently used in the garden. We see the flowers, colours, shapes and textures. Or we can touch them and experience their textures or hear their leaves rustling. But some plants allow us to experience them by their scent.

A few weeks ago, the air was filled with the sweet scent of lilacs and this week is it peonies. They are at the peak of their beauty and fragrance. For me, peonies are filled with memories of my childhood. We always had peonies and their scent brings back great memories.

Lilacs and peonies are well-known fragrant plants. Some lesser known plants include Mockorange (sometime referred to as Orange blossom), Daphne, Creeping Dianthus, Summer Sweet, Royal Standard Hosta, Lavender, Poetez Narcissus, or Rugosa or Shrub Roses...to name just a few.

Adding fragrant plants adds another dimension to your garden since it engages one more of our senses. It heightens your whole garden enjoyment. Here is a tip about fragrant plants: plants them on the west side of your property. Most of our prevailing winds are from the western direction; consequently, the fragrance is carried across your whole yard.

June Pruning

The weather is perfect today! The temperature is in the mid-twenties, with a light breeze and a few clouds. It's perfect gardening weather, and it's the perfect time to prune your evergreens!

They should be pruned when the new foliage has developed but hasn't yet matured or hardened. Pruning now will result in a denser, more compact plant or tree.

Right now the new growth on pines and spruces is so "soft" that you could prune them with your fingers. I do this sometimes, but today I pruned them with my garden shears. This tool allows me to create a more defined shape quickly.

Annually, I lightly prune my Mugo Pines into a mushroom cap shape.  When the plants are young, I prune my Colorado Blue, Norway and White Spruce in a loose pyramidal shape. Once they grow beyond my reach, I don't prune them. Dwarf spruces (such as Dwarf Alberta and Nest Spruce) grow so slowly that they rarely need pruning. I give them a little clipping here and there to keep them in shape, but no major pruning is required. My broadleaf evergreens are also pruned at this time of year. Boxwood can be pruned into any shape you desire, using garden shears or secateurs. Same goes for euonymus - but, personally, I prefer to keep them as natural as possible (not too manicured). Cedar hedges can be pruned multiple times per season starting now. The final pruning should be done mid-August.

Lilacs

Have you taken a really deep breath in the last few days? If not, you should. You're missing something really special - the sweet smell of lilacs.

For a few weeks every year, the air in this part of the world is filled with the unmistakable scent of lilacs. Of all the fragrant plants that exist, none surpass this shrub. If you have never planted a lilac, you will be pleased to learn that they are one of the easiest shrubs to grow. They love our native soil! They do not thrive if you amend the soil with peat moss or other acidic materials. My advice is to dig a generous hole and plant a lilac in your existing soil (which in this part of the country is naturally alkaline - the kind of soil lilacs prefer).

I have never fertilized my lilacs, but if you decide to be sure to use one high in phosphorous - such as 15-30-15. Lilacs planted in your lawn are adversely affected by the high nitrogen fertilizer that is used on grass. This type of fertilizer will result in lush leaf growth at the expense of flowers. So, if your lilac is planted in the lawn, be sure to avoid fertilizing your lawn in the vicinity of your lilac bush.

Since lilacs produce their flower buds late in the season (for the next year's bloom) they can only be pruned immediately after they have finished blooming this season.

If you already have a lilac and it is in bloom, you should treat yourself to a fresh bouquet. Within minutes, your home is infused with the scent of lilacs. A hint that I learned years ago about lilacs is that you should bruise the stem ends before putting them in a vase. This will extend their bloom time in your vase.

Incredible Edibles

Well, here it is! It's finally here. May two-four weekend, that is!

This is the weekend that most of us put aside to plant the garden. If you have ever thought about planting a vegetable garden before, now is the time. Don't be intimidated! Believe me, it is so easy. As with many things in gardening, the most important aspect is preparation. Rototill or fork-over the soil, then add organic matter and nutrients. The organic matter could be peat moss or compost. The nutrients could be manure or slow-release fertilizer. Work all of these ingredients in evenly.

Now you're ready to plant your seeds or transplants in neat and tidy rows...well, that's the theory, but of course I don't do it that way. I plant most of my vegetables amongst my perennials, flowering shrubs, evergreens and annuals. So many vegetables are way too attractive to stick in the back corner of the yard.

It's hard to beat the fine, wispy foliage of asparagus. I plant it closer than recommended and have a large clump of it tucked behind a trio of peonies. The contrast in texture and shape between these two plants is beautiful all season long. And asparagus turns an amazing soft yellow colour in the fall.

And then there's rhubarb! Those incredibly huge leaves can rival any hosta and (best of all) it loves the sun. I plant it near my Golden Threaded False Cypress. Again, I love the contrast in texture between the lacy evergreen and the robust rhubarb.

I have a six-foot tall metal topiary that is topped with an armillary sun dial. Every year, I plant scarlet runner beans around the base. Within a few weeks, the beans are scrambling up the framework and are quickly adorned with bright orange/red flowers. The beans that follow are so delicious!

Swiss chard is another vegetable that you will find planted in clumps in my flower beds or urns. Its foliage is so glossy and healthy looking all season - right into the light frosts of fall.

This is just a sampling of the ways I incorporate vegetables into my landscape.

So this year, why not look at your vegetables with a new eye - look at them for their beauty and ornamental value. Have vegetables do double duty: look good and taste great too!

Dill

I just finished planting my dill.

It can be started indoors or planted directly in the garden. I usually opt to plant by seeds outdoors. The wonderful thing about herbs, such as dill, is that their flavour is better when grown in poor soil. Rich, nutritious soil results in herbs that have less flavour. I work up the soil lightly and with a stick or my finger, I scratch a line in the soil about 1/4" deep, then sprinkle the small seeds in the trough.  I replace the soil and add water. Voila!

By mid-summer, the herbs are ready for harvesting. You can pick and use the leaves at this stage. Or, like me, you can pluck off the flower heads just as they have a hint of yellow, rinse them and place them on paper towels to air dry. Then, rolling them up in the same paper towel, stuff them in a zip-loc bag and put them in the freezer. When you bring them out to use, they taste as fresh and pungent as the day they were picked.

By doing this, I have the most important ingredient ready for the best-tasting veggie dip all winter long. My friends and family love it. Try it yourself and enjoy!

1 cup Hellman's mayonnaise

3 to 4 green onions (or a handful of chives)

4 to 5 drops tobasco sauce

3 or more heads of dill

1 garlic clove

Put all ingredients in a food processor and puree.

Forsythia

On my way home from work today, I saw a Forsythia bush in full bloom. It was spectacular! Like an exclamation mark in the landscape.

Forsythias are one of the few flowering shrubs that bloom before they leaf-out. The bright yellow flowers are, therefore, not diluted by the presence of leaves.

Spring flowering shrubs, such as Forsythias, should be pruned after they have flowered. Start by removing any dead or damaged branches, followed by crossing branches. If it is necessary to reduce the size of the shrub, prune back to an outward-facing bud. This will create an open-structured shrub. Over time, the shrub may become extremely dense with branches; at this time, prune the oldest branches down to the ground. This pruning method will allow the gracefully arching shape of your shrub to be maintained.

Most varieties of Forsythias grow 5 to 7 feet tall, with an equal spread. They should be covered with flowers from the ground to the tip of the branches each spring. If your shrub is only blooming on the bottom few feet, it is an indication that your variety of Forsythia is not hardy enough for its location. The flower buds on the bottom portion of the shrub have been insulated by the snow (and therefore result in a bloom), while the exposed buds on the rest of the shrub are damaged by extreme low temperatures. You can protect these exposed buds by wrapping the whole shrub in burlap in the fall - or better yet, plant a hardier variety! Lynwood Gold, Meadowlark, Northern Gold, and Ottawa Early Forsythia are four of the hardiest varieties available.

Daffodil bouquets

I picked my first daffodil bouquet of the season today. I am fortunate enough to have many of these bouquets throughout the spring season because I have them planted in various growing conditions and I have so many varieties.

About one third of my property is a wooded ravine. Sixteen years ago when I moved there I visualized a natural landscape in this area. So, that first fall, I planted about 100 daffodil bulbs. And, each fall I have planted at least 25 more.

I never plant them individually - I plant them in "drafts" throughout the bush. I have planted every variety I can find. My collection now includes King Alfred, Carlton, Barrett Browning, Wedding Bouquet, Thalia, Minnow, Poetez and on and on.  Most varieties bloom at about the same time (except Poetez which blooms about a month later), but planting them in different micro-climates around my yard extends their blooming season. Those planted close to the south-facing wall of my house bloom first, while those in the cool north-facing bush bloom about three weeks later - with all the others blooming in between.

Fresh cut daffodils exude a sap that is toxic to other cut flowers. Consequently, it is wise to create a spring bouquet composed simply of daffodils.

Spring pruning

This spring has been a challenge for those of us who long to be in the garden.  Spring's arrival has been in fits and starts. It's warm, it's cold, it's wet, etc., etc. 

When the weather is favourable, I get into my garden and tackle my spring pruning - especially the summer- and autumn-flowering shrubs.  Shrubs that flower in spring (such as lilacs) should be pruned after they flower, but summer-blooming spireas, butterfly bushes, Annabelle hydrangeas and viburnums should be pruned in the spring before they leaf out.

Since I have many varieties of spireas in my garden, I tackle them first. I use a pair of grass clippers for this job. By holding them upside down, the clippers are at the perfect angle to snip off last year's finished flower heads. I prefer my shrubs to have a natural shape (as opposed to a manicured form), so I prune lightly and only what is absolutely necessary.

Butterfly bushes and Annabelle hydrangeas are a completely different story. They need a heavy pruning in the spring. Both should be reduced to 8 - 12" from the ground. This means pruning into thick, heavy wood. I find the only tool that does this job properly is a good pair of secateurs.

The other important job that I do faithfully this time of year is inspect my viburnum shrubs. They are prone to an insect that quickly skeletonizes the new foliage. If in the spring, however, you check the twigs for bugs, you can prune them off before they hatch.

Try herbs

Want to make your cooking come alive? Try herbs!

Nothing can compare to your own home-grown herbs, and there is nothing more satisfying than stepping out your back door to snip off a few herbs to add to your favourite dish. There's no waste! You only harvest what you need. Ingredients this fresh really make a difference!

One of my favourite herbs is perennial chives. I know, I know - if you have ever grown chives before, you know how notorious they are for spreading rampantly in the garden. But by removing the seed heads before they mature, you can keep them from spreading.

Every year, I harvest a bunch of the striking, round, purple blooms when they are at their peak and put them into a beautiful bottle filled with vinegar. Then, I set the bottle on the window sill. The blooms infuse the vinegar with the unmistakable chive flavour. After a few weeks, I strain the spent blooms out of the vinegar.

This chive vinegar can be used in any recipe that would be enhanced by the addition of chive flavour. I use it most often in salad dressings and marinades. During the summer growing season, I rarely worry about having green onions in the vegetable crisper because I usually use leaves of my chive plants in any and all recipes that call for green onions. They are totally interchangeable.

Endless possibilities

I found myself daydreaming again today. Don't worry about me, though, it's nothing serious! I am afflicted with this "condition" every Spring. It usually lasts from mid-April until May 24.

While I water the plants in our greenhouse, I daydream about all the combinations and permutations I could create with the new annuals that we are growing. Most urns and patio pots need a little height in the middle. Traditionally, that role has gone to the green-leaved dracaena. This year I see a whole new world of possibilities with the 'Red Star' dracaena and a new Proven Winners ornamental grass called 'King Tut'.

The 'Red Star' dracaena has burgundy-red foliage. When I think about combination plants to create a dramatic effect, I lean towards lime potato vine, yellow-flowered bidens and purple wave petunia. Oh! That combination would be very punchy!

'King Tut' ornamental grass grows to 3 feet tall by the end of the season and has a dense fountain shape. It's flower head reminds me of exploding fireworks. Architecturally, it is amazing! I wouldn't dream of hiding it with tall plants. It would look great paired with the new petunia called 'Pretty Much Picasso."  It is a medium-pink petunia with a surprise - the petals are rimmed with a chartreuse-green band. It is so unique! And it would complement the 'King Tut' grass beautifully.  I would then add a few gold standard hostas. Oh! What a bold, unexpected combination.

Patio pot featuring 'King Tut' ornamental grass

*Image provided by Proven Winners*

Those are some of the new, exciting plants available this season. This time of the year there is lots of watering to do, which means lots of time to daydream and fine-tune my urn creations.

Spring has sprung

Welcome to Reds Garden Centre's first gardening column!!

I'm an outdoors person. I love to be outside puttering in my garden every chance I can get. So now that the snow is gone, I know it won't be long until I can enjoy my garden again.

If you are an avid gardener like I am, you are probably yearning for the arrival of Spring too. I can't wait for the frost to come out of the ground, followed by the flowering bulbs. Ahh! I await the hyacinths the most.

My garden contains more hyacinths than any other Spring bulb. Why? Mostly because of their strong, sweet fragrance, but also because the deer do not favour them. (I have a "herd" go through my yard every night and dine on my delicious garden!) But, also because they are perennial. Every Spring each bulb sends up more blooms. Yes, after about 6 to 8 years the bulbs get crowded and I have to dig them up in Fall and divide them. But this small effort is worth it - to keep the beautiful blooms coming.
Once they finish blooming in the Spring, I simply cut off the flower stalk near the ground and let the leaves to ripen (die off) naturally. The leaves will manufacture and store enough food in the bulb for the next year's big display of flowers.

Most garden plants and flowers offer instant gratification. You plant them and you can instantly see your garden  transform with their foliage and/or flowers. But Spring bulbs must be plants in Autumn and do not appear until the following Spring. But I think the wait is worth it!